Buckthorn Blaster | The Buckthorn Blaster® (NAISMA) is used to apply herbicide* to freshly cut stumps and stems. Use of indicator dye is highly recommended for visual assurance of complete treatment area coverage as shown in the photo at right. NAISMA's Mark-It Blue Dye product is a highly concentrated water soluble landscape dye for use with herbicide. | https://shop.naisma.org/collections/buckthorn-blaster |
Chainsaw | A chainsaw makes it much easier to take down large invasive trees. But they represent a serious threat of injury. Bottom line: do NOT use a chainsaw unless you have received training or have experience with these tools. Make sure you wear protective gear (gloves, eyewear, long heavy pants). | https://www.thespruce.com/tips-for-using-a-chainsaw-4778799 |
Glove | When you remove invasives, you use your hands and arms _a lot_. So it's important that you protect them. Gloves are essential. In my experience, it's worth investing in high-quality gloves that give you more protection and last longer.
If you do lots of work with thorny species, like multiflora rose and buckthorn, you might consider getting gloves that cover up your forearms.
Alternatively, you can also consider getting a pair of arm chaps. | https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/importance-wearing-gloves-while-working-/ |
Hand saw | Hand saws are among the most common tool we use to cut invasives when they are too big or difficult to remove via hand-pulling or extractor tool.
Most of the saws we use are crosscuts that cut on the pull. They are extremely sharp and designed to tear through wood. They will tear through your skin even when they are dull. So be very, very careful when using a saw. | https://www.ehow.com/how_7599837_cut-down-tree-handsaw.html |
Lopper | Loppers are used to cut branches and small saplings, usually up to 2” in width. The long handles let you reach far and exert high leverage with minimal exertion, letting you comfortably cut anything that can fit entirely between the blades when they are open. Typically, this includes wood of up to one inch in diameter or more, but for most of your cuts on much smaller wood, you’ll prefer the accuracy and one-handedness of pruners over loppers. For thicker wood, you’ll need a pruning saw. | https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-use-loppers-3269540 |
Shear | Shears are like big scissors. They are helpful for cutting plants and branches and other growth that is thin in diameter (and los of it). We often use shears to cut greenbriar and multiflora rose, mostly to get the thorns out the way so we can to the "real" target for removal. | https://www.homestratosphere.com/types-of-tree-trimming-tools/ |
Tree Extractor | Weed Wrenches, Pullerbears, Uprooters, Extractigators: These tools are used to lever out saplings by the root, from a foot to 12 feet in height (depending on species and thickness of trunk at base). So you kill them dead, but also disrupt the ground quite a bit.
Of the four brand names listed above, I am 100% a devotee of [Extractigators](https://extractigator.com). They feature a “second generation” design that is lighter and much easier to use. | https://extractigator.com/ |
Weed Wand Magic Applicator | The Weed Wand Magic is a weed killer applicator that is perfect for spot applications of herbicides and safe to use even on windy days. It is easy to use, with no bending over, no leaking, and no overspray. | https://www.amleo.com/weed-wand-magic-applicator/p/WWA |